third week a little late

We're a little late in posting this entry as we just moved to a new apartment and haven't had internet at home for the last few days. We're now living in the lap of luxury in the newer part of town. We have a three bedroom, 2.5 bathroom flat right across the street from the Yanuncay River. (In case you're curious we're paying $455 per month utilities and internet included. You can find places a lot cheaper if they're not furnished.) There are twelve families living in our compound and our house is set back furthest from the street so it is very quiet. It's a kind of gated community in that you need a key to get in and out. Rather than feeling exclusive, it just feels safe. We live above our landlord, an expat who has lived here for 12 years. Our landlord is a story in and of himself. He's a libertarian Vietnam vet, USofA brass beltbuckle wearing, good ol'boy, and a generous and engaging person. His wife is a sweet and lovely Ecuadorean 25 years his junior.
Of the twelve houses on this street ours is the only one with gringoes. We are slowly getting to know our neighbors in this upper middle class setting. They all seem happy to welcome a new family into the compound, even slouchy looking gringoes. Either that or they're extremely gracious.

In 1996 Jefferson Perez, a shoeshine boy from Cuenca, speedwalked to an Olympic gold medal . This is Ecuador's only Olympic medal ever. Here he is a hometown hero. The reason we mention this is that it is striking how one person can transform a culture. Cuenca is fitness crazed. When we leave for school every morning we see hundreds of people along the banks of the river, walking, running, lifting weights, doing Tai Chi. Maybe as many people exercise in San Francisco as do in Cuenca but you don't see them. They're off in their private gyms. Here it is all low tech and very public. Even old ladies speed walk and do jazzercise to blaring music in a park downtown. Men in their fifties can be seen sprinting up the hundreds of stairs that lead into old town. Sometimes the joggers seem in odd contrast to the cows grazing along the river or the chickens that occassionally find their way to the sidewalk.

Our big family news is that Liam and Ailish will be enrolled in a local, highly regarded school starting March 30th. We had a terrific tour with the school director last Monday. They have a child centered approach to teaching which we hope will make the transition from homeschooling easier. As some of you may remember, when our kids last attended school 4 years ago, they were in a Spanish immersion public school. At that time many of their classmates lived at or below poverty level. Once again their classmates will be native Spanish speakers. This time, however, their classmates come from a fairly elite sector of local society. We're thrilled that the kids are willing to take on the challenge of a new school in a new country in a foreign language. It helped that Ailish thinks the uniforms are really cute. Liam has been a little more reluctant but he does look forward to playing at least an hour of soccer everyday.

The mountain photo above is from our hike in Cajas that Ailish wrote about. We've joined a hiking club that goes on hikes every other week. We feel extremely lucky to have found it as it is mostly Ecuadorians and not well publicized in the gringo world. It's also much more affordable to go with this group than it would be to go on our own or with tour guides. We're going on another hike tomorrow and will post photos. The other photo that may need identification is one of us with our Spanish teachers in the Spanish school.

Mark and Sheilah

What should I say? So far I have been enjoying Ecuador more than I thought I would. I could actually imagine living here. Where we are there are not many birds. Well for Euador standards at least! We still see sparkling violet ear hummingbirds everyday And swarms of swallows circle above our river. Tomorrow we will take an epic hike through a rainforest. There will be many birds, I hope. And maybe I'll get pictures of them!?

One thing I really like is the play structures. By the river outside our house there are big swing sets and zip lines. Every 50 yards or so there is another play set that is awesome, too. Many people run and do dorky excersises near these parks as well.

Peace,

Liam